Ethiopia: A Train Journey
There aren’t many places in Africa where you can travel by passenger train, but the line from Addis Ababa to Djibouti is the only functioning railway in Ethiopia. Originally built by the French in the early 20th century (Djibouti was a French colony), it was modernized by the Chinese in the 21st century. The train journey takes a total of two days: on the first day, it travels from Addis Ababa to Dire Dawa, and on the second day, it continues from Dire Dawa to Djibouti (and vice versa for the return trip). This means departures in each direction happen every other day. A ticket to Adama costs about $11, with half-price fares available for locals. The ride itself takes around seven hours.
Dire Dawa Railway Station: Impressive
The Dire Dawa railway station makes quite an impression. Security is tight, with manual bag checks at the entrance.
The train itself is a unique experience. Modernized yet retaining a sense of history, it reflects a mix of French legacy and Chinese upgrades. The interiors are basic but comfortable, offering an authentic view of the Ethiopian landscape as it rolls by.
The Carriage
The carriage is surprisingly decent, offering more comfort than expected. I managed to get a window seat, giving me the perfect view to take in the changing landscapes as we move along the tracks.
There’s Also a Sleeper Car Option
There’s also a sleeper car available, set up like a classic open-plan compartment. It has a more communal feel, with rows of bunks and shared spaces, ideal for longer journeys or those wanting a budget-friendly travel experience.
There Are Even Compartment Cars
There are also compartment cars available, though, unfortunately, tickets for these were sold out. It’s a shame—I would’ve loved the chance to travel lying down in a bit more privacy and comfort.
Departure: Passing Through the Oromia Region
As we set off, the journey takes us through the Oromia region, where the landscapes are breathtaking. The scenery is a blend of rolling hills, stretches of arid plains, and scattered villages. Here and there, you can spot small farms, herds of livestock, and vibrant green patches of cultivated land, painting a picture of rural Ethiopian life.
Sparse Settlements and Few Stops Along the Way
There are hardly any settlements along the route, and the train makes very few stops. The few stations we do pass are located quite a distance from the nearest towns, adding to the remote feel of the journey. It’s as if the railway cuts through untouched stretches of land, with little sign of human presence beyond the tracks.
Friendly Waves from Locals
As the train passes by, locals often take notice, waving warmly as if welcoming the travelers. It’s a small but touching gesture, reflecting the friendliness and curiosity of the people here. These moments add a personal connection to the journey, bridging the gap between the train’s passengers and the lives unfolding in the landscape around them.
Entering Picturesque Canyons
The landscape begins to shift as we enter a series of small, scenic canyons. Steep rock faces rise on either side, creating a dramatic and almost secluded atmosphere. The colors of the rock and the way sunlight filters through the canyon walls add a beautiful contrast to the journey, making this stretch especially captivating.
Frequent Unscheduled Stops
The journey would be almost perfect if not for the frequent, unscheduled stops. Unlike the planned station breaks, the train sometimes halts randomly between stations, standing still for 30 to 60 minutes without any announcements or explanations. We even departed an hour late. Other passengers mentioned this is due to power issues—a common occurrence, it seems. This quiet waiting is just part of the travel experience here, though it does test your patience!
A Long Delay and a Hungry Arrival
The train was supposed to reach Adama around 3 PM, but we didn’t arrive until 10 PM—a full seven hours late! I hadn’t anticipated such a delay and found myself extremely hungry and worn out by the time we got there. Typically, I have one substantial meal a day—dinner—since most restaurants aren’t open in the morning, making it easier just to snack on a few cookies or some fruit. That’s all I had with me, and it had to last me until the late evening, as there were absolutely no food options on the train.
The last photo before sunset—and there were still several hours of travel ahead…
