I’m exploring provincial England, and there are several large aviation museums around here. Today, we visited one near York, located on the grounds of a former airfield in Elvington, which served as a long-range bomber base during WWII.
A bit of history:
The base was established in October 1942, though flights didn’t begin until February 1943. From here, missions were launched to bomb targets in Germany and occupied France.
I’ll skip the detailed statistics, but here’s a quick snapshot: during the first two or three months, only three crews were lost (about 2% of missions)—a relatively low rate. But as the war intensified, losses mounted, reaching about 13% by 1944.
To put this into perspective, each crew flew 28-30 missions per month. At a 13% loss rate, this meant one in eight crews didn’t make it through the month. And the war dragged on for many months…
During the “Battle of Berlin” (January to March 1944), when extensive raids targeted the German capital and surrounding areas, the losses rose to 31%. Essentially, one in three crews didn’t return.
The museum welcomed us with a Hawker Hurricane, a night fighter flown by the French pilot Mache. He became known for defending York against German bombers and was honored as an honorary citizen of the city for his service.
Here’s a Spitfire—the most advanced British fighter at the start of the war, and also the most produced. Over 22,000 were built in total, with a top speed of 570 km/h.
First, I entered a hall dedicated to air gunners. Here’s a turret from the First World War—where it all began, you could say. The earliest turrets were open and operated manually, giving a glimpse into the challenges these early gunners faced.
And here’s a 1942 model: a twin-mounted Lewis machine gun with a 7.7 mm caliber. By this time, turrets had become enclosed, with electric or hydraulic power systems for smoother and more controlled operation.
Sometimes, turrets were equipped with two or even four Browning machine guns with a 7.92 mm caliber. The nose turrets often got splattered with oil from the engines, so gunners occasionally had to break the glass mid-flight to improve visibility.
The job of an air gunner was incredibly tough. They had to master theory—like firing trajectories, enemy flight paths, and so on. Gunners needed excellent vision, especially night vision, and the ability to stay alert for up to eight hours in temperatures as low as -50°C. They were also at greater risk than other crew members, particularly the tail gunners. Over the course of the war, out of 55,000 British air gunners, 22,000 lost their lives.
Here are examples of flight crew uniforms. These outfits were designed to provide some protection against the extreme cold at high altitudes, with thick insulation and layers. Different pieces were issued depending on the crew member’s position and the specific needs of their role, from leather jackets to fleece-lined helmets and gloves.
The base also has authentic wartime structures, preserving a sense of history. Interestingly, England wasn’t fully prepared for war when it came to aviation, especially in terms of bombers. They gathered pilots from across the colonies and set up training and retraining programs in places like Canada, South Africa, New Zealand, and Rhodesia. Training pilots in these locations was safer, away from the war zones. After completing their courses, pilots would arrive in England ready for deployment.
This is a little café set up in what used to be the dining hall. The atmosphere still holds a bit of that wartime feel, with memorabilia on the walls and vintage decor, making it a unique spot to grab a coffee and imagine what it was like back in the day.
This is a simple yet solemn chapel with a curved ceiling and rows of wooden chairs neatly arranged for services or gatherings. The space is brightly lit, with natural light streaming in through multiple windows along the walls, creating a warm and peaceful atmosphere. At the front, a display of flags and banners adds a touch of reverence and military tradition, likely commemorating those who served. The setup suggests a place of reflection and remembrance, possibly dedicated to honoring aircrew and other military personnel from the base.
So, what did they fly? They used the Lancaster and the Halifax—both were four-engine bombers with a crew of seven. Each was equipped with nine machine guns and could carry nearly six tons of bombs. With a range of 2,850 km and a top speed of 450 km/h, these planes were formidable. In total, just over 6,000 were built. Interestingly, each aircraft required a ground crew of 40 people to keep it in operation, highlighting the scale of effort needed to support these missions.
This is the most famous Halifax, known as Friday the Thirteenth. There’s a story that, despite carrying a rabbit’s foot for luck, the crew initially had a streak of bad luck—mechanical failures, getting hit and forced to turn back, or missing their targets. The commander, desperate to change their luck, decided to bring a live rabbit on board. After that, things started to turn around, and the plane completed 128 combat missions without losses.
One of the volunteer guides shared this tale with us.
Bombing was a complex and often inaccurate process, especially at night. To increase the chances of hitting targets, large groups of aircraft were sent on missions. They mainly focused on large targets: transportation hubs, factories, and other industrial sites. Factories located within major cities were considered ideal targets because, even if the bombs missed the intended facility, they would still damage residential buildings, weakening civilian morale and disrupting daily life. War, after all, is a profoundly cynical affair.
In the photo, you can see the area around Cologne’s railway station after several bombing raids. The destruction is stark and serves as a reminder of the devastating impact these missions had on cities.
The pilots of 613 Squadron, based here, took part in one of the most famous operations of WWII: the destruction of dams deep in German territory.
Under the guidance of engineer Barnes Wallis, the so-called “bouncing bomb” was developed and tested—a bomb that could skip across the water’s surface. On May 16, 1943, sixteen bombers (with 133 crew members, including not only British but also Canadian, Australian, American, and New Zealand airmen) took off on this daring mission.
Their objective was to destroy the dams that controlled two-thirds of the Ruhr Valley’s water supply—a vital resource for German military industry. The resulting breach unleashed a massive flood, devastating everything in its path for 60 kilometers. Several power plants, factories, stations, and miles of roads and railway tracks were destroyed. Tragically, around 1,300 people lost their lives, and production was disrupted for months.
However, this success came at a cost—half of the bombers did not make it back from the mission.
This is a Hadrian transport glider. These gliders were towed by transport planes like the Dakota or by bombers. A single Halifax could tow up to three gliders. Each glider, besides its two-pilot crew, could carry 13 soldiers with full gear and a jeep, or a 75mm howitzer with ammunition. Gliders were considered disposable; they weren’t reused. After landing, the pilots became infantry and fought alongside the soldiers.
When you think about it, it’s mind-blowing—the risks they took! They were towed through enemy air defenses, with enemy fighters on the lookout. Then they were released, engine-less, needing to find a suitable landing spot and survive the landing. And after that, they still had to fight behind enemy lines.
From May 1944 until the end of the war, this airfield was home to French pilots. But how did they end up here?
At the start of the war, a squadron of French heavy bombers flew to Tunisia. When Anglo-American forces landed there in 1942, the aircraft and over 2,000 personnel were shipped to Liverpool. After undergoing training, they fully replaced the British staff at the base. Over 18 months of combat operations, they completed 2,800 missions, though at a heavy cost—50% of their aircraft were lost.
In the photo, you can see the French pilots’ rest room. Many veterans returned to this base repeatedly after the war, revisiting a place that held deep significance for them.
Around a quarter of a million women served in the regular army and the Women’s Auxiliary Air Force (WAAF) during the war. They took on a wide range of duties—from cooking and meteorology to clerical work and aircraft maintenance and repair. While there were female pilots, none were allowed to fly in combat missions—a firm policy upheld by the British government.
In the photo, you can see a line of women waiting to enlist in the Auxiliary Air Force, eager to contribute to the war effort in any way they could.
This is a monument dedicated to the women who served in the Air Force. It honors their invaluable contributions to the war effort, recognizing the countless roles they played—often behind the scenes and without the recognition they deserved at the time. These women worked tirelessly, handling everything from maintenance to logistics, supporting the missions and operations that were crucial to the war. The monument stands as a lasting tribute to their service and sacrifice.
There’s a hall dedicated to the rise and fall of airships, though it mainly features photographs. Another hall covers the history of bombing tactics and air defense, showcasing a wide array of artifacts—documents, weapons, equipment, and personal items. These displays provide a fascinating glimpse into the evolution of aerial warfare, from strategic bombing to defensive measures, and highlight the human stories behind the technology.
The aforementioned engineer, Barnes Wallis, also worked on another project—the Great Panjandrum (the name translates to “big shot” or “bigwig”). This was a secret British project: a massive wheel packed with explosives, designed to be propelled by small rockets. The idea was to use it for breaching German fortifications. However, things didn’t go as planned. It turned out that steering the device was nearly impossible. During testing, the wheel almost exploded near a group of admiral observers, and after that close call, the project was scrapped.
This aircraft is called the Victor, first taking to the skies in 1951. It was one of three bombers in the “V Force” group, each made by a different manufacturer: the Vickers Valiant, Avro Vulcan, and the Victor B1. These planes were capable of carrying standard bombs as well as free-falling atomic bombs, marking the first foray into nuclear-capable aircraft. Later, it was decided that missiles were a more reliable delivery method for nuclear warheads, and although production of nuclear-capable bombers continued for a while, the focus gradually shifted. The bombers were eventually phased out, but the Victor B1 prototype was modified into a refueling tanker.
This particular aircraft saw action in both the Falklands War and the Gulf War, before being retired in 1992.
Howker Siddeley Nimrod. Самолет слежения за подводными лодками. Мог определять мелкие объекты на поверхности воды на большой дистанции, прослушивать океан на большую глубину и даже определять выхлопы дизельных двигателей. Но борту он нес специальные небольшие глубинные бомбы с ядерным зарядом для уничтожения подводных лодок на большой глубине.
The French Mirage IV was designed to deliver a single nuclear bomb at high speeds, reaching up to Mach 1.85. With a range of 2,000 km, it was built to penetrate enemy defenses quickly and reach its target with precision. The Mirage IV played a significant role in France’s nuclear deterrence strategy during the Cold War, combining speed with long-range capabilities.
The Mirage III, a fighter-bomber developed in 1956, could reach speeds of up to Mach 2. Around 1,200 of these aircraft were produced, serving in the air forces of 15 countries. This particular Mirage III was gifted to the museum by the French government. Interestingly, the pilot’s father, also a pilot, flew bombing missions against the Germans from this very base during World War II, adding a personal and historical connection to this aircraft’s presence in the museum.
The British Meteor fighter was the Allies’ first and only jet aircraft to see action during World War II, taking its first flight in 1944. It marked a major milestone in aviation, introducing jet propulsion to Allied forces and setting the stage for post-war advancements in jet technology. Though it was primarily used in a defensive role, the Meteor represented a leap forward, showcasing the potential of jet-powered flight.
The Hawker Hunter, introduced in 1951, was part of the first generation of jet fighters. Known for its sleek design and agility, it became a highly successful and widely used aircraft, setting speed records and serving in various air forces worldwide. The Hunter set the standard for early jet-powered fighters, marking an important step in aviation history as military forces adapted to the new era of jet technology.
The Blackburn Buccaneer was a bomber designed to carry nuclear weapons, specifically tasked with targeting large enemy ships. Its robust build and low-level flying capability made it well-suited for maritime strike missions. The Buccaneer was engineered to operate at high speeds, skimming over the water to avoid radar detection, making it a formidable asset in naval warfare.
The De Havilland DH Devon was Britain’s first post-war small passenger aircraft, capable of carrying eight passengers. Known for its success and reliability, it was produced from 1946 until 1993, with some luxurious versions made for VIP transport. This particular aircraft was used for coastal patrol duties. Remarkably, several DH Devons are still flying today, a testament to the durability and popularity of its design.
The Douglas Dakota 4 was designed as a dependable “workhorse” and was produced from 1942 to 1970. Its rugged design and versatility led to licensed production in many countries, and it became a staple in both military and civilian aviation. Today, hundreds of Dakotas are still in operation worldwide, showcasing its enduring legacy and remarkable durability.
The Douglas Dakota 4 was designed to accommodate 28 passengers. Its spacious cabin and reliability made it a popular choice for both military and civilian transport, further cementing its status as an aviation icon with a lasting legacy.
This particular Dakota had a dramatic history: it once flew into a flock of birds, which disabled both engines and covered the cockpit windows with blood and feathers, severely limiting visibility. Despite these challenges, the pilot managed to land the aircraft safely. After repairs, it was repurposed for coastal patrol duties, specifically monitoring for oil spills at sea.
This is one of several Blackburn Buccaneer S2 models. Originally designed as a carrier-based aircraft, it was later adapted for use from land-based airfields as well. The Buccaneer S2 was a versatile aircraft, known for its ability to perform low-level, high-speed attacks, making it effective in maritime strike roles and ground attack missions alike.
The Panavia Tornado is a variable-sweep wing fighter-bomber, produced from 1979 to 2003. Capable of reaching speeds of Mach 2.3, it was a joint project between Britain, Italy, and Germany. The Tornado introduced a new tactic in which hundreds of small bombs were dropped at low altitude over enemy airfields, effectively disabling runways and rendering them unusable. This approach highlighted the Tornado’s precision and effectiveness in strategic bombing and airfield suppression.
The Lightning fighter, in service from 1957 to 1988, was known for its rapid climb rate and high-altitude capabilities, designed to intercept and destroy high-flying bombers. Interestingly, despite its impressive performance, the Lightning only has one confirmed “kill” to its name—a Harrier that had gone out of control. After the pilot ejected, the Harrier continued to fly, gradually descending. To prevent it from crashing into populated areas, a Lightning was scrambled to intercept and shoot down the unmanned aircraft, marking the only “combat” action for this model.
The Farrey Gannet is an intriguing aircraft, designed for carrier-based operations and specialized in detecting and destroying submarines. In service from 1954 to 1978, it was capable of carrying mines, bombs, and torpedoes and was packed with advanced electronics for anti-submarine warfare. This versatile setup made the Gannet a formidable tool in maritime defense, effectively safeguarding naval forces from underwater threats.
Here are samples of bombs. The one on the right, with red fins, is a model of an atomic bomb. The massive bomb on the left is known as the Tallboy, standing at 6.4 meters tall and weighing 5.4 tons.
The idea of creating a bomb with earthquake-like destructive power was on the minds of military strategists. When Barnes Wallis (the inventor of the “bouncing bomb,” mentioned earlier) was asked how long it would take to create a 10-ton bomb, he famously replied, “Five months and all the industrial capacity of Sheffield.” Due to technical limitations, a 10-ton bomb wasn’t feasible, so they developed this “smaller” version instead.
During its descent, the Tallboy reached such high speeds that it would bury itself deep into the ground before detonating. The resulting shockwaves caused buildings and structures to collapse as if shaken apart. Several German factories and rocket launch sites targeting London were destroyed this way, illustrating the devastating effectiveness of Wallis’s design.
Up next are several photos of the outdoor exhibits. The display area showcases larger artifacts and equipment that wouldn’t fit indoors, providing a closer look at various aircraft, vehicles, and other impressive examples of wartime engineering. These open-air exhibits allow visitors to appreciate the scale and design of these machines up close, bringing history to life in a tangible way.
Here are a couple of shots from the hangars.
The Messerschmitt BF 109 had a top speed of 640 km/h and a range of 850 km. Fighters of this model are credited with the highest number of enemy aircraft shot down, making it widely regarded as the most lethal aircraft in aviation history. This particular plane is painted in the colors of German ace Colonel Hermann Graf.
Here’s a brief summary of what I read about this pilot.
Hermann Graf was born in 1912 in western Germany, near the Swiss border. He had two passions: football and aviation. From a young age, he played for his local club and attended glider school. Between 1921-1924, he played for the German national team, but a broken finger ended his football career.
He trained as a mechanic and then worked as an office clerk. Using his own funds, he built a glider for the local flying club. In 1938, he graduated from flight school and became a certified pilot. At 26, he was considered a bit old to be a fighter pilot, so he was assigned to transport aviation. However, at the start of WWII, he was reassigned to fighters.
At the beginning of the war, he served in Romania and Greece, training personnel and attacking enemy ships. Then, he was sent to the Eastern Front. He’s credited with his first aerial victory over Ukraine in August 1941, and by the end of that year, he had 42 victories. By the end of September 1942—about a year later—he had shot down 200 enemy planes (he claimed 216), all on the Eastern Front. He became a national hero, receiving numerous awards. In late 1942, he was recalled from the front to join a group testing high-altitude fighters, later intercepting Allied bombers and downing another 8 aircraft. In 1943, he was injured in the arm and could no longer fly, so he continued serving as an instructor. By then, he flew the Focke-Wulf 190, a more powerful aircraft than the Messerschmitt 109.
After Germany’s surrender, he was held as a POW by the Americans. Under an agreement at the time (which I only just discovered), the Allies handed over anyone who had fought on the Eastern Front to the Soviets. Graf was sent to a camp near Moscow. Like others, he was thoroughly investigated for war crimes, but nothing substantial was found, so he remained in detention as a “soldier following orders.” Meanwhile, his commander was sentenced to 25 years in a Soviet labor camp. Graf was released in 1949 and returned to West Germany.
Interestingly, his fellow Luftwaffe pilots refused to admit him to their veterans’ association. They accused him of cooperating with the NKVD during his imprisonment. Later, journalists examined the archives and found no evidence of this, though Graf later admitted that, under pressure, he briefly joined an “anti-fascist pilots” group in the camp to survive.
Using his old connections, Hermann Graf went into football administration and even served as president of Bayern Munich from 1958 to 1962. Like many high-altitude pilots, he developed Parkinson’s disease and passed away in 1988 at the age of 76.
The SE5a fighter, in service from 1917 to 1922, was the fastest British aircraft of World War I. It’s considered one of the first planes specifically equipped for strafing ground positions with machine guns and carrying out bombing runs. The SE5a’s speed and firepower made it a formidable asset, marking a significant development in the use of aircraft for direct ground attack.
To wrap up, there’s still so much more to see here. One cool thing about this place: the ticket costs £15 and is valid for an entire year. So, I can come back as many times as I want within that year at no extra cost. I’ll definitely be visiting again.
That’s it for now—thanks for reading! Travel, friends. It’s worth it.
