One August day, my wife and I decided to visit Lithuania’s main Catholic shrine, known worldwide after being visited by Pope John Paul II: the famous Hill of Crosses. Located 12 kilometers from Šiauliai, the fourth-largest city in Lithuania, we took the opportunity to explore both. The distance from Vilnius is 230 km, with a highway leading up to Panevėžys, then a two-lane road to Šiauliai.
The car handled well, and with a moderate speed, fuel consumption was 5.2 liters per 100 km at 100 km/h on cruise control. A hybrid might get 4-4.5 liters, but in my opinion, it’s not worth the extra 5,000 euros for the upgrade. At 120 km/h, fuel consumption rises to 5.6 liters. For a 2-liter engine with a CVT, that’s practically free. Gasoline prices in Lithuania have recently dropped to 1.75 euros per liter, and with VAT refunds, I pay around 1.5 euros, making travel quite affordable.
The journey was smooth, scenic, and perfectly complemented by a visit to one of Lithuania’s most significant spiritual sites.
We arrived quickly, circling around Šiauliai before heading straight to the Hill of Crosses. It’s very much a tourist spot now, neatly maintained on all sides. Tourists come by car and bus, and there’s a parking lot right in front of the hill for €0.90. Some people leave their cars along the road for free, but we decided to stop at the little shop by the parking lot to buy a cross.
The parking area in front of the Hill of Crosses is where visitors will also find a souvenir shop that sells crosses in a wide range of prices, which people then carry up the hill. The Hill of Crosses is a revered site in Lithuania; by some accounts, there were already over 100 crosses here by 1900. No one knows exactly why people started bringing crosses to this spot, though the hill itself resembles an ancient mound, likely the remains of a former settlement. It’s a small, low hill with two gentle peaks, easy to climb.
During the communist era, the hill was leveled several times, yet Lithuanians continually restored it, bringing more crosses each time. Now, crosses don’t just cover the peaks and slopes but spread out around the hill, creating an expansive area filled with symbols of faith and resilience.
Despite its appearance, the Hill of Crosses is not a cemetery. According to local legend, anyone who leaves a cross on the hill will be blessed with good fortune. Today, you can find an incredible variety of crosses here—from massive wooden crosses several meters high to small pendant crosses that hang in clusters on the larger ones. One crucifix was placed by Pope John Paul II during his visit to Lithuania on September 7, 1993. This gesture brought global attention to the Hill of Crosses within the Catholic world, leading to a substantial rise in the number of pilgrims and tourists visiting the site. Near the hill stands a chapel built for the Pope’s visit, from which he delivered his sermon.
According to legend, a wooden castle once stood on this hill in the early 14th century, built by the barons of the traditionally pagan region of Samogitia. In 1348, the castle was destroyed by the German Teutonic Knights, who sought to impose Christianity through force. Many believe that after this battle, the surviving Samogitians gathered the bodies of their fallen comrades, buried them, and created a burial mound over the site.
The tradition of placing crosses on the hill survived through difficult times: the raids of the German Teutonic Knights, the uprisings of Lithuanians against Russian Tsar Alexander II in the 19th century, and, in the 20th century, the harshest threat yet—the Soviet Union. In their effort to eradicate Christianity in the region, Soviet authorities made repeated attempts to destroy the hill, first in the 1960s and then again in the 1970s. There were a total of four attempts, with the last one occurring near the end of the Soviet era, in 1984.
The hill was leveled by bulldozers; wooden crosses were burned, and metal ones were sent to scrap. Those who dared to place new crosses were fined or even detained. Yet, despite all this, crosses continued to appear on the hill—a powerful, silent symbol of resistance against religious repression. Now, more than 30 years after the fall of the Soviet Union, the crosses stand as if untouched, having outlasted even that empire.
The Hill of Crosses belongs to no one and everyone simultaneously. Neither the church nor the state claims ownership over this place, and people bring their crosses here not because they are told to, but because they feel compelled to. A small amount of assistance in maintaining order on the Hill comes from the local authorities of Šiauliai and a community of Franciscan monks. Currently, there are over 100,000 crosses and other religious symbols on the Hill—and this number is constantly growing. Recently, symbols from other faiths have started appearing alongside the crosses, including a gilded Star of David and a crescent, representing the Islamic faith.
The Hill of Crosses gained worldwide fame on September 7, 1993, when Pope John Paul II visited the site. In the chapel built opposite the hill, he held a Holy Mass for a crowd of over 100,000 people. During the service, Pope John Paul II blessed Lithuania and all of Christian Europe, leaving a lasting mark on this revered site.
The first crucifixes on the hill are mentioned in chronicles from 1850, though it is believed that the initial crosses appeared in the early 1830s. They were placed by relatives of victims of an uprising, as the Tsarist government did not permit proper memorials for the deceased. Even more crucifixes appeared after the 1860s. By the early 20th century, the Hill of Crosses had become a sacred site, drawing pilgrims from various countries. It also began to serve as a location for religious services, further solidifying its spiritual significance.
During Soviet rule, the Hill of Crosses faced repeated attacks from the government. For nearly 20 years, the USSR attempted to completely flatten the site. The first major effort occurred in 1961, when all crucifixes were broken, toppled, and some were even burned. Until 1984, the Soviet authorities made numerous attempts to deter people from visiting the hill. Yet, pilgrims continued to come secretly, restoring the Hill of Crosses each time. The mound where the crosses now stand is, in fact, a man-made elevation, built up over years of quiet resilience and dedication.
The number of crosses is rapidly growing, as nearly everyone who visits the hill brings their own cross. Small crosses can be purchased at the shop by the parking area, while larger ones are often brought and placed by groups of pilgrims. For crosses taller than 3 meters, permission from the city is required to install them.
At the top, it’s truly a forest of crosses. The wood ages quickly, especially if it’s untreated, and some crosses even fall over with time. Some are made from treated wood to withstand the elements, but crafted to look aged, blending naturally into the historical feel of the place.
Since 1997, a church service has been held on the hill every year on the last Sunday in July. In 2000, at the initiative of Pope John Paul II, a monastery was built and consecrated to the north of the hill. In 2007, over 50 crosses on the hill were officially included in Lithuania’s registry of cultural assets.
Many of the crosses have bells hanging from them, and some metal crucifixes dangle from strings. With every breeze, a soft, melodic chime fills the air, accompanying you all the way up the hill.
Nearby the Hill of Crosses is a tourist information center and a souvenir shop where visitors can buy crosses to place on the hill. According to legend, those who leave a cross on the hill will be blessed with good fortune throughout their lives. The shop also sells pendant crosses and amber jewelry. It’s best to visit the Hill of Crosses on sunny days; in rainy or overcast weather, the site can feel quite eerie, with the swaying crosses softly clinking against each other in the wind, creating unique sound effects. We were fortunate to visit on a beautiful day—not too hot, mostly sunny—just perfect for exploring.
The first attempt to demolish the Hill of Crosses came in the 1960s, just as exiled Lithuanians began returning from Siberia. Many visited the hill to give thanks to God for their deliverance from Stalin’s oppression. It was during this time that Soviet authorities decided to eradicate the Hill of Crosses. Bulldozers were brought in, wooden crosses were burned, metal ones were sent for scrap, and stone crosses were thrown into the nearby Kulpe River. An outbreak of swine fever was declared in the area, roads were closed, and entry was strictly prohibited. However, despite all these efforts, crosses continued to reappear on the hill, brought under the cover of night by determined individuals.
Opposite the Hill of Crosses stands a chapel where the annual Hill of Crosses celebration takes place on the last weekend of July. In 2000, a Franciscan monastery was built near the hill, further enriching the spiritual significance of this unique site.
The photo below captures the view from one peak to the other—illustrating that “hill” is more of a symbolic name, as it’s really no more than a small mound, no taller than 100 meters. A gentle wooden staircase leads up to it, making the ascent easy and accessible for everyone.
This photo was taken from the first peak, looking down toward the base of the hill. In the distance, you can see the parking area and souvenir shops nestled near the foot of the hill.
Here is the Star of David itself, gilded and placed within a protective plastic casing.
My wife is choosing a spot for our cross. The larger crosses are adorned with clusters of smaller ones, creating a living, shifting display that moves with even the slightest breeze.
There really are so many crosses here—an entire forest of them. There are narrow pathways in some places, but most areas off the main path are impassable due to the density of crosses. I’m not sure if fires ever occur here, though I didn’t see any fire extinguishers around. It seems, thankfully, that fires aren’t a problem, though I couldn’t say why. Most of the crosses are made of wood, but even if something were to happen, it wouldn’t hinder the tradition. The number of crosses grows so quickly that the hill would be restored in no time.
We found a spot a bit higher up, between the two peaks. It’s traditional to write names on the cross and a wish or intention for what you’re asking for. No guarantees, of course, but since we’re here, we’ll make our request as well.
There are crosses from many different countries here. I saw ones from Armenia, Poland, and Ukraine among them.
A visit to the hill doesn’t take much time, and Šiauliai itself is just 12 kilometers away. The name “Saule” was first mentioned in the Livonian Rhymed Chronicle in connection with the Battle of Saule in 1236. It appears in various forms—Saulen (1254), terram Saulam (1348), and in Saulia (1358)—in the same and other German chronicles.
Šiauliai is a small city with a population of about 107,000, making it the fourth largest in Lithuania. There are two theories about the origin of its name: Saule means “sun” in Lithuanian, while šaulys means “archer.” The locals decided to embrace both interpretations by installing a statue of an archer by the city lake that doubles as a sundial. Quite original, don’t you think?
The city’s main landmark is the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul. The Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul was built in Šiauliai between 1617 and 1637 (or, by other accounts, between 1595 and 1625). Historical records indicate that Bishop Jurgis Tiškevičius consecrated the church on October 8, 1634. The architectural style of the building likely took its final form in the mid-17th century, with construction funded by the contributions of local parishioners.
We visited on a Sunday afternoon, and the Mass had already ended, so there was hardly anyone around except for the priest.
If you ask in Šiauliai where the Šaulys (Archer) sculpture is, locals might be a bit puzzled. But they’ll definitely know where to find the “Golden Boy.” Befitting the city of the Sun (Saulė), the “Archer” stands atop Lithuania’s tallest sundial. The square, featuring a sculpture by the renowned artist Stanislovas Kuzma, is designed as a massive clock face. The shadow marks 12, 3, and 6 o’clock, symbolizing the year of the Battle of Saule—1236.
A panorama of the city beach on Lake Talkša reveals a unique sight—a massive iron fox. The Geležinė lapė (Iron Fox), created by designer Vilius Puronas, has stood by the lake since 2009. According to the Lithuanian Book of Records, it is the largest animal sculpture in Lithuania, weighing around 7 tons, stretching about 15 meters in length, and standing 6.6 meters tall.
At the heart of this steel fox (measuring 1.2 meters high and 0.9 meters wide) is a capsule containing a message to future generations, engraved on a copper plate. This work by the Šiauliai designer was dedicated to the 1,000th anniversary of Lithuania’s first mention in historical records. The designer joked that while Vilnius has its legendary Iron Wolf, Šiauliai can proudly boast the Iron Fox—a symbol of ingenuity and wisdom. This imposing fox appeared on the shores of Lake Talkša on December 23, 2009.
On Sunday afternoon, the city center was quiet, almost empty. As I mentioned, the town feels a bit depressed—it’s clear that the pandemic has had a noticeable impact on Šiauliai.
It’s an interesting installation—just dismantled parts from old radios and tape recorders. In the evening, it’s lit up, creating a unique effect. You can touch everything; it’s all open and accessible. Very original!
And that’s the end of the photo report. Thank you for taking the time to look and read along!